Travel

Vacation Photos: Capri

Last week, Alex and I took a four-day getaway to Capri, Italy. (Here’s why:) Have you ever been there? What a magical place! I’d love to share a few photos, if you’d like to see…


We stayed at La Minerva, a design hotel with stark white walls and bedding (how do they keep everything so white?) that’s run by two lovely Italian brothers. On the walls hung framed photos of the French movie Contempt, which was filmed in Capri. Here I am, hanging out on the bed trying to pose for a photo and then getting sunscreen in my eye like a five-year-old.

We quickly fell into a vacation routine. During the day, we would hike down the cliffs to a beach club (either Da Luigi or La Fontelina), where you can rent a chair and umbrella for the day. Here’s a photo of Da Luigi. How gorgeous is that?!

As you can see, there’s no real beach, but instead you lie around on the staggered rocks and then climb down a ladder into the clear blue water…

The cold water was so refreshing.
One thing that surprised me was that every single woman rocked a bikini, no matter what her age, shape or size; it was inspiring to see all these beautiful women walking around. Another surprise was how none of the Italians we met seemed nervous about the sun. Everyone lay out all day; we were the only nerds under an umbrella.

Here’s me, slathered with 90 SPF, in the shade, fully dressed, reading a book. (Also, my book was not cheery beach reading, although it was good and gripping.)

Each beach club had its own restaurant, so we’d take a break from relaxing to have lunch. Having a Caprese salad in its hometown of Capri was a very rare treat. The tomatoes were bright red and bursting with flavor, and the mozzarella was fresh and milky with sea salt and oregano. We washed everything down with Negronis.

Around sunset, we’d take walks and admire the views…

The beautiful Via Krupp, full of hairpin turns, leads down to the Marina Piccola, the bay where, they say, Ulysses was seduced by the sirens.
Alex of course insisted that we walk up to the ruins of Villa Jovis, where Emperior Tiberius had lived. Fun fact: Apparently he used to throw slaves off the cliffs just for fun. Gave us chills.

At night, of course, we’d go to dinner and get more Negronis. One of our favorite places was Le Grottelle, a family restaurant up in the hills. We walked away from the main town and through dark pedestrian streets, until we finally stumbled upon the beautiful restaurant under a canopy of trees which overlooked the dark side of the island. Luckily, a full moon lit up the sea and the black silhouette of the cliffs. We had amazing pasta with shrimp and zucchini.

As we left, we saw the sweet grandmother cooking in the kitchen!

And since obviously we hadn’t eaten enough, we got gelato each night with JUST BAKED WAFFLE CONES THAT WERE STILL WARM! Secret tip: The best gelato is the yogurt flavor. It sounds boring and plain, but it’s actually tart and incredible. We’d get it alongside Nutella or Pistachio. Mmmmmm.

On our last day, we took a bus to Anacapri, the smaller town on the other side of the island. On our friends‘ recommendation, we went on a long walk through on twisty little roads…
…until we came across this community pool! It was full of families with sweet little kids. Of course, there was a bar at the pool…

…so we got Negronis.

After four days, we headed home. We were sad to leave such a beautiful place, but also happy and ready to return to our sweet Toby (who we had promised to bring back a blue soccer ball and a lollipop:) Our last memory of Italy was at the Naples airport, where, in the food court, this awesome guy was making pizzas to order—literally one at a time, rolling out the dough, brushing on the sauce and sprinkling on the cheese. Oh, Italy, we love you! :)

Thanks so much for reading. And thank you for your fantastic recommendations!!! xoxo

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  4. good place to see capri, maybe i can recommend some of islands to you

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  6. I,m Spanish and we have better beaches but Italy is the best to enjoy eating¡ for the next time I recomend You To visit Ischia, close by Capri; It is really beatiful¡

  7. i love Italy but i’m italian so… i’m biased!:)
    i’ve just posted our last trip to genoa and cinque terre: wonderful places (but no stroller friendly!)
    if you need a guide for your next trip to the north of Italy (Venice or Verona) write me!!

  8. Amazing pictures, I wanna go!

    xx

  9. How do you guys manage to get affordable tickets to places like Italy from the US? Tickets are really expensive these days. :(

  10. i was in there with my family several years ago and had dinner near gwyneth paltrow and her two children. but like you, i was unsuccessful in getting a picture of her. her bodyguard came over to our table when i made the attempt. oh well. some of the best food of my life though. such a magical place!

  11. wow, i think my goal will be to one day go on a vacation somewhere with super blue water!

  12. My favorite part is the photo of the caprese salad sliced up like a chef’s salad, instead of slabs on tomato like you usually see. A nice twist.

    I went with friends in college to Ischia, the neighbor island that Germans frequent. We went to the hot springs where there where little bubbling pools of hot water—an old gentleman was boiling potatoes. : )

    Totally agree about the yogurt gelato, I privately decided that the pinkberry person must have been inspired by tasting yogurt gelato.

  13. I’m Italian and I’m so glad you enjoyed your stay in my Country (however I live in the North, near Milan). I want to tell you a secret about bikinis and the crowd under the sun despite the heat: in Italy you are absolutely out if you do not show the darkest and most perfect tan when you come back from your holidays!!! So, if you have 3 weeks of summer holidays (as it usually happen in Italy in July or August) and you can ho to the seaside for just one week, then you’d better decide to go the last week so you can show the best of your tan once you go back to work… That’s crazy, isn’t it?

    For you next trips I suggest you choose 2 other regions: Calabria or Puglia, the sea is far better and life is far cheaper!! Avoid Sardinia or Tuscany, some restaurants or hotels sometimes apply different prices to strangers… ;)

  14. Beautiful! I too love the lack of body issues in European women. My first trip to our German town’s Thermalbad shocked me, not because of everyone’s lack of concern over walking around nude, but the fact that there were women of all ages and shapes. I would never see such a thing at a spa where I was from in CA! It’s so refreshing.

  15. looks so so fab-and love your reasons for going-fingers crossed with that!

  16. If you have a chance, read Red Sails to Capri to Toby. It’s a bit old for him and he might not be able to follow, but the story is magical and I’m sure you’d love it too ;)

  17. I went to see Celeste & Jesse forever this evening because of your recommendation and really enjoyed it.

  18. love that you took a vacation for just the two of of you, how romantic!

  19. What an amazing trip darling! Makes me dream of an Italian summer even more :)

  20. This looks amazing and only makes us a teeny bit jealous… Congratulations on your anniversary and a fabulous holiday! Good luck this fall… :)

  21. you look gorgeous in that top photo at the table!! looks like a great trip!

  22. You live such a luxurious life, Joanna! Sometimes I read your blog and envy that your life seems blissful and perfect, but what I love the most is how real you are (like when you were open about days you felt blue). Cheers to your second child to be!

  23. We stayed at the Minerva, 7 years ago though. My then boyfriend proposed and I said ‘yes’ on the balcony of our room. So many happy memories! Hopefully one day we can take our kiddos there, too. Capri really is beautiful, I remember marvelling at the colour of the sea, so clear and turquoise. Not like where we usually stay while in Italy…

  24. that looks beautiful Joanna. :) looks like you had a lovely time. Xx

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